For the last few months, running has taken a back burner to climbing. Of course, I've been on climbing trips before, but never for more than a day at a time. My friend Audrey invited me on a trip to Kalymnos, Greece, which would involve 4 total days of climbing with one rest day in the middle of the week. I wasn't sure if my body would allow me to accomplish this. Would my arms be wet noodles by day 2?
To prepare, I reduced my weekly mileage to about 20 miles per week and I upped my climbing sessions to 3X per week, where one mid-week session was designed to build endurance. On the recommendation of Chris from Rockville, I was doing 5 sets of 3 consecutive climbs on auto-belay routes rated 5.8+ to 5.10- with about 5 minutes rest between sets. The main goal was to get fully pumped by the end of the session. On the other two days, I allowed myself to climb less routes, but to try harder routes. This was easier to do, since I'd either be with Chris or Dylan on top rope. I also practiced some leading, but on easier routes, nothing harder than a 5.9.
I also did quite a bit of strength work, with special attention to my left shoulder which has been bothering me. Fast forward to after the trip and I think the strength work really paid off, because I'm actually in less pain now than I was before the trip.
Getting to Kalymnos is not easy. It's a flight to Athens, another flight to Kos and then a ferry to Kalymnos. Prior to our departure, our Airbnb host warned us that the ferry hadn't been running when it was windy out and of course, it was their windy season. So we land in Kos and already the cab driver is telling us that the ferries have been cancelled all day. We find some fellow climbers and settle in at a cafe with a view of the port so we can see if the ferry will come that evening. I didn't realize what a climbing Mecca Kalymnos really is. Every person waiting in that restaurant for the ferry was trying to get to Kalymnos to climb. We ended up having dinner with a couple from Boulder, CO, a woman from Germany and a British guy living in Norway. His climbing partner had cancelled last minute, but there was such an abundance of climbers that he went on the trip anyway, saying he'd have no problems finding strangers to climb with via Facebook.
Not sure how we got so lucky, but the last ferry of the day did finally show up despite choppy waters. It was a smallish ferry and not the most pleasant ride, but it did the job and we made it to Kalymnos that night. As I remember from a trip to Corfu, Greece many years ago, the cab ride to the Airbnb was terrifying. No one wears seat belts (mine was disabled) and the streets are super narrow even though they're intended to be for two-way traffic. Nevermind the goats wandering aimlessly along the road sides. I'm happy it was dark enough so that I couldn't see too much.
It was so nice that we planned for a full free day before meeting our guide, Simon for climbing. We arrived on a Saturday night and had a full Sunday to pick up groceries and get our bearings. The Airbnb was perfect. There was an amazing view of the sea and Telendos from our balcony and we had a daily visitor, a gray kitten named Misty Blue. We woke up starving and found a great little cafe for coffee and pastries. Then went and checked out the beach and I got in a short run. Spent the rest of the day relaxing and had a delicious early dinner. All of the meals we had were delicious, but the one that stood out was on Wednesday evening at the Kokkinidis Taverna. The restaurant had fresh red snapper that they served with a green sauce that tasted like parsley, garlic and lemon. We ended up going to the same restaurant (the Aegean) 3 times because of the free loukoumades and ice cream that they served at the end of each meal. The other memorable dish was goat mouri at Tsopanokos, which is a rice and goat dish cooked with many aromatic spices. The meat was super tender. The salads at the Aegean were flavorful and colorful with pomegranate seeds, fresh peach, prunes, figs, grapes and farmer's cheese.
First morning's breakfast
Misty Blue helping herself to a drink of water
One of many delicious dishes at the Aegean
Day 1, Simon took us to a climbing area in Ariginonta Valley. The approach was an easy walk and it felt like a warm up for the week. We started with 2 easy lead climbs and then moved onto slightly harder climbs. It felt good, even with a little bit of wind and rain. Simon didn't do much coaching that day except to tell us to avoid being in the "fatal toilet position"- the position where your hips are far away from the wall and your butt is hanging down. I think he knew that if we were going to survive a whole week of climbing that we had to learn how to climb with less energy. This meant keeping our hips close to the wall and really standing tall on each foot, finding places to fully rest our arms, unattached to the rock. Audrey had warned me that limestone might be rough on the hands, but given the highly trafficked area we climbed that first day, many spots on the routes were even polished and difficult to smear on. Routes climbed on day 1: Hippocrates, Skafandros, Rufixius, Greundzo, Rhythm of the Rain, Patokorfa.
Day 2, I was surprised to wake up feeling good. No soreness and it was a much better day. The sun was out. Simon had another client that day, Sandra, and she was a better climber than us, so he spent most of his day climbing with her and setting up top ropes for us. The Heroes climbing sector was much smaller and had a longer approach. The approach was a beautiful hike was awesome views of the sea. That day, I think Audrey and I just enjoyed being at the crag. It was a much newer section, so the limestone was sharp. We both got our fair share of cuts and scrapes. We practiced stemming that day and did a funny climb that was easy and slabby all the way until a tough boulder problem at the top of the climb. The last climb Simon put us on was impossible. It was slightly overhanging and razor sharp. It didn't matter though. It was just fun to try harder climbs and enjoy watching the other climbers, especially in the cave section. Routes climbed on day 2: 1940, Billie, Cadmus
The approach to Heroes
Enjoying the sunshine and scenery at Heroes
Day 3 was our rest day from climbing so we decided to check out Katouni beach that Simon had recommended with a fun out and back run/hike along the coastline. We could see Saint Fotis Chapel in the distance. All of the churches are beautifully white-washed with blue domes. Very picturesque. Getting a cab out to the beach was ok since we were able to find the taxi stand in the center of town and the restaurant owner near the taxi stand was willing to call a cab for us. We had asked the driver to come back that afternoon for us, but I had a feeling he wasn't coming back. After the gorgeous hike/run, we settled in at the only open restaurant next to the beach and enjoyed some lunch. When the cab didn't show, we were lucky enough that some locals were willing to call us a cab back to Myrties since I didn't have cell service.
Running trails along the coast towards Katouni beach
Somewhere along the coast
Post run swim
Day 4 was probably my favorite day. Simon had us focus on footwork at the Arhi climbing area that day. He had us do exercises where we were only allowed to climb with one arm. This forced us to really focus on our feet and learn how to no-hands rest. The first route was super awkward, but by the third route, it was actually feeling comfortable. Since the routes are super long (about 100-130 ft), it was necessary to figure out how to climb with as little energy as possible. It was also easier for me to climb first so that I didn't have any beta going up the route. Not sure why, but I seem to do better when I can just figure it out myself. As the sun moved into the area, we bailed and went back to Ariginonta Valley and climbed further right of where we were that first day. Routes climbed on day 4: Scacco, Europa, Argonauti Extension, Bleu du Ciel, Iodoine
Practicing a no-hands rest in Arhi
Topping out on Iodoine
Day 5, we went to our closest crag, the Poets Wall. The approach was a very steep, chossy mess. Simon ran up the hill barefoot carrying all of the gear and Audrey and I took our time as to not slip and fall into the sharp shrubby stuff all along the path. The Poets Wall was stunning, with many tufas and bulges. I really enjoyed climbing that day. It was challenging but doable and the weather was amazing. We had a fantastic view of Telendos from where we were climbing. At the end of the session, Simon gave us a demo of some exercises he does with resistance bands in order to prevent injuries. We ended the day early so that we could go and enjoy the water and an early dinner before having to get up early to travel the next day. Routes climbed on day 5: Quando Tramonta il Sol, Karoubalo, The Homeric Verses, Oyzo, Mpyra, E'tardi
Poets Wall
Poets Wall
With Simon and Telendos behind us
Sunset
Travel home was smooth sailing. The ferry was on time and we even lucked out and found Audrey's phone at the Athens airport where it was lost on the journey to Kalymnos. A small miracle! Kalymnos was definitely a memorable trip. With over 3,000 routes, I'm hoping to come back one day and explore some more.
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