I'm out in Moab for the Behind the Rocks race and I can easily see why people come here and never leave. It's a playground for the outdoor adventure seeker. Rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, canyoneering, camping, skydiving, etc. Back home in Princeton, Teslas are the norm. Out here, it's the Sprinter van. But there are also so many cool looking mobile home set-ups, including tiny little campers, tents on car roofs and vans and buses of all shapes and sizes.
My travel all went super smoothly. Flew into Salt Lake City, which never gets old. The 360 view of snow capped mountains is breathtaking. I picked up my rental car (which they upgraded to a Jeep Wrangler for less money?) and started my drive to Moab. The drive in was awesome. No traffic and some awesome rock formations. I had to try my best not to let my eyes wander too much. I got into town with plenty of time to call home and check out the town. I had only eaten snacks all day, so I was ready for a decent dinner. Ended up eating at Arches Thai and getting a big bowl of Pho, which hit the spot.
Deliciousness
If it was up to me, I would've made this a 2 week trip and spent much of the time climbing. It's a climbing mecca out here. The race was a reason to get me out here, but the climbing is the main draw. I had a near perfect day yesterday climbing the Stolen Chimney route up Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers area. I would say that there were only 2 things I could complain about. First was the near freezing temps to start. The first 2 pitches were in the shade and I really couldn't feel my fingers or toes. Second complaint was a big bruise/scrape I have on my left shin. I stupidly didn't put my foot out to stop my shin hitting the wall on the little swing back onto the front of the corkscrew part of the climb. It doesn't look too bad this morning though and I'm just happy I didn't bang up either of my knees (which is what I usually do).
I was super lucky to get hooked up with a guide who was eager to be first on the route. She picked me up at 5:45 and drove the 40 minutes to the trail head in the dark. We needed headlamps for about half of the hike in. I wasn't prepared for how small the actual corkscrew spire would look. I imagined a massive tower, but really it was only the second half of the 3rd pitch.
Hiking in at sunrise
As we were gearing up, I couldn't believe how still the air was. Thankfully, it wasn't a windy day. The only sounds we heard were the ravens, hopeful that we would leave them some snacks at the base of the climb. One little hiccup was that my guide forgot her climbing shoes, but she had done the climb so many times (almost 150) that she was able to climb the entire thing in her hiking shoes. Impressive.
The beginning of the first pitch was very irregular, blobby rocks. It was an easy scramble up to a big concave dish. That was my first challenge. Thankfully, there were bolts in that section so that I could pull on quick draws to aid my way through. I'm not used to stemming, but was able to manage it.
Looking down on the dish of the first pitch, our tiny backpacks below
That took me to the base of the second pitch, an enormous chimney. I watched my guide maneuver her way up the chimney until my view was blocked by a little roof. I was unsure of how I would get up, but managed pretty well. There were some tight spots and some awkward moves. The Party Ledge was waiting for me at the top of the second pitch. Had a quick drink and some bites of a Bobo Bar and got ready for the third and final pitch.
Second pitch chimney
Exiting the chimney and ready to get onto the Party Ledge. A view of Castleton Tower in the background.
The start of the third pitch is an arete, which is my favorite type of climbing. There weren't many good hand holds, so there was also the option to aid my way through with the bolts and quick draws. After the arete, there is a section called the Sidewalk, a little 20 foot balance beam. I wasn't taking any chances with a fall in this "no fall" zone, so I just butt-scooted my way across. At the end of the Sidewalk, was the Diving Board. Some opt to mantle up and belly-flop on top of the Diving Board, but I opted to crawl underneath as my guide had done. I had seen her do the crux move on the tower so I needed to conserve energy for that move. Getting up onto the tower ended up being a challenge for me too. It was a high step with both feet and very slippery hands. I did end up hanging on the rope a bit to get on the tower. I then had to shimmy my way onto a ledge and that's where the crux was- climbing up this giant bulge. Thankfully, there was a sling that I could pull on. Even so, it was a challenge. I had to get my left leg up super high, toe onto a tiny crystal of rock, pull on the sling and push up with my right arm to get my right leg up. It was a very physical move. Thankful my guide was there to talk me through it. After that, it was just an easy slabby climb up the backside of the tower and the nerve-wracking standing up on top of the tower. I'm glad I took my guide's advice and did not look down. I eventually sat down and enjoyed the view from the top for a few minutes. By then, there were several parties behind us, so I couldn't hang out for too long. It was truly a remarkable seat with an unworldly view. I love the desert.
Climbing up the corkscrew
Trying to psyche myself up for the crux move over the bulge
Summit on a Blue Bird day
When it came time to descend, it was a little heady. I had to down climb off of where I was sitting and make my way back around to the front of the tower. Then back across the Sidewalk and down the arete. We did a single rope rappel, which I've never done. It was a lot bouncier and less steady as compared to a double rope rappel. When we were finally on the ground and the ropes were down, I had a sense of disbelief that I had actually made it to the top of the tower. One of the climbers waiting to go up was nice enough to take a photo of me on the summit.
Expansive desert view as we hiked out
That weird Christmas tree looking thing is what I had been standing on
By the time we left, there were about 3 parties climbing. The entire climb and hike in and out took about 5 hours. We were back at my place by noon, which was great because it gave me enough time to go back to my room and have lunch and still have enough time to do a short hike out to Corona Arch in the afternoon.
Due to the kindness of strangers, proof that I was at Corona Arch
I can't thank my guide from Moab Canyon Tours enough. Marie, you are awesome. Not only did you take me on a climb of a lifetime, but you recommended a great hike and the best dinner spot. It was amazing weather for sitting out and enjoying dinner. The perfect way to wrap up a perfect day.
Enormous banh mi salad from 98 Center
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